von Wedel & Tiedeken

Interview with von wedel & Tiedeken

Among the pioneers of Berlin's current fashion boom are Friederike von Wedel-Parlow and Regina Tiedeken. They worked as assistants to Vivienne Westwood and have developed the unerring eye of their teacher − but their own highly unique style.

Influenced by Vivienne Westwood

"It was a really good start", explains Friederike von Wedel-Parlow. One might even say that it was tantamount to receiving a knighthood. It was Vivienne Westwood, no less, who brought her and Regina Tiedeken together. From 1993 to 2005, the British star designer taught fashion design at the Berlin University of the Arts (UdK), and the two of them were her students.

At a graduation dinner organized by Friederike von Wedel-Parlow and Regina Tiedeken to thank the many people who had helped with the fashion show, Westwood offered them the chance to become her assistants. For them, this marked the start of five years in the service of the eccentric fashion diva. "She really influenced us a lot", says Friederike von Wedel-Parlow, "and the subjects we choose and the way we work still stem from our time with her. As far as the look of our collections is concerned, however, we have emancipated ourselves more and more from her." At the end of 2003, while they were still working as Westwood's assistants, they created their own Von Wedel & Tiedeken label and, with their first collection Spaceship Earth, were invited right away to take part in the Moet & Chandon Fashion Debut.

While it was still possible back then to see a hint of Westwood in some rather baroque-looking skirt or in voluminous shoulders, her influence is now noticeable only in the designers' exacting standards and permanent checking of the own work.

Can you tell us a little bit about the new Autumn/Winter 2008-09, what were your initial concepts?

R: Insight, so the title of the winter collection is inspired by the human body. We did not just dress the body on our dresses and in our knitting you can find DNA codes and red blood cells, on the shirts you find lungs and blood cycles.

- Regarding your S/S 2008 collection, can you tell us a little bit about the detail.

R: The summer 2008 collection ocean's roar is inspired by working garments of Japanese fishermen as well as by the immensity of the ocean.

We found a book with drawings from the 30th of fisherman at work and were impressed by the collage of prints, colors and layerings. Another image showed a fisherman in a grey sweatshirt which was bleached by sun and water and had white saltcrusts on it. Inspired by that effect, we developed an overdyetechnique to reach the same effect. The woodcut, the big wave of Kanagawa of Katsushika Hokusai inspired us for a bleach print on cotton and on jersey pieces. The collection is held mainly in greyish and bluish colors, combined with black and white and a strong but overdyed red. Structure through knitting technique or patternwise, layering effects and colormix are elements of this season's summer collection.

- What is the most important facet to pay attention to in your designs?

R: On one hand it's the cutting; you can find dresses and jackets which look on the first view quite normal, but then you discover for example 2 pairs of sleeves, or sleeves which you can take off no side seams etc. On the other hand the designs are developed under a certain theme and if you get deeper into the collection you will find the story behind the clothes.

- Do you have any favourite materials/fabrics and/or special techniques you enjoy using?

R: We work a lot with jersey and knitting. We love silk screenprinting and jacquards. With these techniques you can easily create your own distinctive look.

- In the beginning, what actually made you get into designing?

R: We were actually nominated for the Moet Chandon Fashion Debut, so we took part and started to sell this collection.

- How would you describe your style?

R: Our style is elegant, feminine and sporty. We try to unify it in each garment. Our dresses are so comfortable and sporty that you can mostly wear them over the day but worn with high heels for example, so elegant that you can go out in the evening.

We make clothes for smart and self confident women with style.

- What are your opinions on the current Europe fashion scenes?

R: Very diverse and very interesting!

- What is your favourite thing to do in dayoff?

R: Friederike has a little garden on an island in one of the city's rivers and loves gardening or being out there with friends. I also like to go to the countryside with my daughter and my husband or to shop on a fleamarket in the neighborhood.

- If you have any good friends of fashion designers in Europe, could you let us know?the name or brand please?

R : FRANZIUS, Esther Perbandt , c・neeon

- What are your career plans, do you have any future goals?

R: We want to expand with von Wedel & Tiedeken ; )

- Do you have some words of wisdom for any young designers and our readers?

R: ''THE ESSENTIAL IS INVISIBLE TO THE EYES'' Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Website : http://www.vonwedel-tiedeken.de/

Written by Toshimi Takaishi