Louise Amstrup

Interview with Louise Amstrup

Danish born Louise Amstrup spent part of her childhood living in Germany and later returned to Duesseldorf to complete her studies. In 2003 she graduated from Akadamie Modedesign, where she was awarded the ''Graduate Talent'' prize. She now lives in London. Louise has worked with various designers including Alexander Mcqueen, Jonathan Saunders, Alistair Carr and Sofia Kokosalaki . However, with the growing interest and demand for her work, Louise decided it was time to take on a new challenge. She successfully launched her self- titled debut collection ''Louise Amstrup'' in 2006. With an aim to dress women in contemporary garments and promote individuality, Louise Amstrup creates a powerful, feminine collection with a soul to suit the female shape.

Her culturally mixed background is reflected in her designs: a hint of the strict and constructed meets soft and surreal, but always with a slightly ironic stitching. '' I don't like it when designs or creativity seem forced, I believe that my clothes rest in their own creative personality and radiate a natural soul- a piece of my imagination''. Garments are made from delicate silks and soft chiffons mixed with exclusive wools and cottons.

- Regarding your London Fashion Week A/W 2008 collection, can you tell us what it was like during the preparation stages?

L: I was very excited about the fact that I finally had a catwalk/show case where I could let my collection ''come alive'' and emphasize the mood of the collection with styling, music and lights. Naturally there were suddenly some new elements to think about, but somehow it just made it all more complete. Emotionally I just really tried to focus on each piece of clothing, note in the music, button, shoe frill so that the nerves wouldn’t kick in. And somehow it worked. I was also extremely moved and proud to see how my whole team really worked hard and helped making it all happen.

- What were your initial concepts?

L: I've taken inspiration from film director, David Lynch and the modernist artist Man Ray. I've interpretated the surreal representation of the mysterious women in David Lynch's films, from Rita the femme fatale in Mulholland Drive to high school prom queen Laura Palmer in Twin Peaks these girls show us perfection with a darker hidden agenda and combines a mood represented in Man Ray's work with the surreal ''reverse negative prints''. The personalities of David Lynch's women have a manifold of different layers to create the mystery, and many of the garments are constructed of complex panelling to indicate this. To drag out the other side of what seems intact Louise Amstrup has worked with decolouring parts of her materials to create this feeling of what lies beneath. Silhouettes are graphically sharp and short emphasising the waist that mirror David Lynch's women with constructed, strict volants in contrasting materials comes from the dualist behaviour that acts as a reference to the water in which Laura Palmer was found. Mystery. I work with the strictly constructed surreal and dreamy draping with contrasts of leather and silk, wool and chiffon. The combined statements give an insight again to the more restricted visible woman to the more eclectic background.

This is also seen in the repeated panels with collars that are slightly replaced and reconstructed. Colour palette ranges from cream and bran tones leading to dark and dusty blues, greys and plum with black.

“So don't play it for real until it gets real ”

Mulholland Drive 2001 (Audition scene) David Lynch

- What was the feedback like from other people and how did you feel after it was over?

L: The feedback was really good. Vogue.com wrote a lovely review and so did Amelia magazine and 156 amongst others. I was very happy when it was all over, because I truly felt that I had reason to be proud of my first catwalk show. Strangely it was like the nerves really kicked in after the show, so I did spend a few restless nights after the show waking up and thinking: Where are the shoes!!??

myspaceTV : London Fashion Week A/W08 Catwalk Show @ON|OFF

- What is the most important facet to pay attention to in your designs?

L: I think I tend to pay a lot of attention to detail. Also I love to combine very tailored and constructed pieces with more draped and surreal shapes, in that way a small eclectic and unique universe is created.

- In the beginning, what actually made you get into designing?

L: I have always been very creative and I think it came very naturally, maybe so naturally that I have never really thought of what got me started. It was always there... Besides from that I love the idea of creating something that makes people feel beautiful and/or can help them emphasize their personality.

- What are your opinions on the current UK fashion scenes?

L: There is a lot happening at the moment! I think that the London Fashion scene is probably the most innovative and creative to be part of at the moment. It is great to be surrounded by a lot of very talented and courageous designers.

- What are your career plans, do you have any future goals?

L: Well at the moment everything is about my little company and how to make it grove even more. It is hard to say what my future plans are...

- Do you have some words of wisdom for any young designers and our readers ?

L: For young designers: believe in what you do, and always do your best. Work hard... and work even harder. But never forget to ask yourself if you are enjoying what you are doing. If not, life’s too short.

Website : http://www.louise-amstrup.com/

Written & Photos by Toshimi Takaishi